August 4, 2023
The Beauty of Nigerian Handwoven Fabrics: A Closer Look
In a continent rich in culture and heritage, numerous man-made treasures of artistic expression have transcended time such as Nigerian handwoven fabrics.
In this blog, we’ll be focusing on one that we’re pretty familiar with at NACK, and that is the art of weaving fabrics. In this exploration, we dive deep into the allure of African handwoven fabrics, with a special focus on the remarkable Oke, Akwete, Ita Inochi and other renowned handwoven textiles.
A Symbol of Heritage
Amidst the bustling markets and vibrant streets of Nigeria, the Oke fabric has always been a symbol of heritage in today’s times, woven into the very fabric of African societies. This
handwoven textile is characterized by bold colours and traditions of the communities with roots tracing back to the Yoruba people of Nigeria.
Each Oke piece is a masterpiece of creativity, in the earlier days, artisans working on these fabrics will meticulously hand weave intricate motifs that convey tales of ancestry, beliefs, and rituals. During these times the Oke fabric was not merely a garment; rather it was treated as a canvas for cultural storytelling, encapsulating generations of wisdom in its threads.
Today, we get to experience a more contemporary version that allows simpler patterns, and even in some cases no patterns at all. However, this does not mean the fabric is losing its value most “Aso oke” based clothing is typically considered a luxury because of the time and effort it takes to produce a single yard of fabric. It is the reason why it is more commonly used in creating accessories like caps ( Fila), or head ties ( gele).
Akwete on the other hand, originating from the town it’s named after in Abia state is almost always playful with colours even today. The traditional Igbo weaving method demonstrated in its making includes the sisal-hemp, raffia and spun cotton into a product on a wide vertical loom.
Weaver’s Statue In Akwete-Abia-State-Nigeria
The coarse raffia materials were used by masquerades and in the past as headgear for warriors and the more comfortable and colourful spun cotton is used to weave cloth for everyday wearing.
As far as origins go, Da Nwakata is who is known to be the acclaimed pioneer of the weft patterns on Akwete cloth.
According to the people who have learnt from her, it is believed she unravelled and studied threads from an open woven cotton cloth locally known as Acham, brought through trade with the Portuguese sometime between the 14th and 16th centuries. Then, she applied what she learned and proceeded to secretly weave the new style of design that would later come to be known as Akwete.
Igbo Weaver making Akwete Fabric
Today, quite several scholars have worked on the Ebira traditional fabrics popularly referred to as Ita Inochi which is unique in Nigerian weaving traditions.
Their style of cloth is essentially woven on the broadloom and contrasts with the Yoruba narrow-strip loom.
As a result, it is wider, more graphic and more complex in pattern designs than other fabrics of Southern Nigeria.
Up until the 20th century when synthetic fibres were introduced, weavers used natural fibres such as bast and cotton to weave cloths.
An Ebira Weaver at work
Today, materials for Ebira-Tao and Southern Nigerian textiles include cotton, silk and a range of rayon, lurex and industrially produced dyes.
Such times are a cherished representation of Ashanti culture, worn on special occasions to celebrate heritage and achievement. Meanwhile, the Bogolanfini mud cloth, dyed with rich earth tones and adorned with symbols, reflects the power of nature and community in Malian society.
In recent years, African handwoven fabrics have undergone a resurgence, captivating the fashion world with their authenticity and unique charm. Designers have begun integrating traditional textiles into contemporary designs, creating garments that bridge the gap between ancient traditional and modern. However, It’s essential to recognize the efforts being made by African designers to preserve the cultural relevance of these fabrics. Artisans and communities are collaborating with fashion designers and enthusiasts to ensure the continuation of these age-old techniques, and by incorporating these fabrics into modern fashion, we honour the legacy of the past.
As these fabrics find their place in the global fashion landscape, they remind us that true beauty lies not just in aesthetics but in the narratives they carry and the connections they foster across cultures.